Hokyo-ji Doll Funeral

Yesterday we found ourselves intimately involved in two different festivals. The first was a solemn 'doll burning' ceremony at the Hokyoji nunnery, which houses a very expensive 1000 yen exhibition of dolls the daughters of the emperor brought when they set up the temple. This consisted of a huge display of hundreds of Japanese dolls, and a solemn ceremony in which the nuns read sutras, while three extremely photogenic Geishas in ornately woven attire made offerings and the small crowd offered prayers.

Doll Memorial Service at Hokyo-ji Temple Imperial princess dolls have for centuries found a special home at this temple. Today, the general public also bring their Japanese dolls (traditionally used as a form of protection for girls) to this memorial service. Reception starts at 10:00 and the ceremony starts from 10:30. A dance performance by a geisha from the Shimabara district will also be featured; Access: Kyoto City Bus #9, get off at Horikawa Teranouchi; Tel: 075-451-1550.

Ningyo Kuyo is a memorial service for beloved but now unwanted old dolls, which are offered to the goddess of mercy (Kannon bodhisattva). Before the ceremonial burning nuns of Hokyo-ji temple comfort the souls of the dolls by chanting sutras. Kannon is especially worshiped by women who wish to become pregnant and they also bring dolls hoping for offspring.

A blog on the doll ceremony from which some of this commentary originates.

Ningyo Kuyo is a memorial service for beloved but now unwanted old dolls, which are offered to the goddess of mercy (Kannon bodhisattva). Before the ceremonial burning nuns of Hokyoji temple comfort the souls of the dolls by chanting sutras. Kannon is especially worshiped by women who wish to become pregnant and they also bring dolls hoping for offspring.

Hokyo-ji temple is an old nunnery, which served as a residence of imperial princesses. When a young princess went to the nunnery, the family sent her exquisite dolls to assuage homesickness. For instance Princess Kin received a doll with long orange-red hair reminiscent of a kabuki actor. This type of doll was believed to fend off hoso (chickenpox). Hokyo-ji maintains a number of antique dolls as well as sugoroku, kai awase, and other elegant, graceful, imperial play games. The temple is known as Ningyo-dera, Doll temple.

'My little granddaughter called last night to ask me to visit Hokyo-ji temple and I assured my darling that her doll will enter into eternal rest peacefully, so don’t worry' – an elderly lady. Japanese tradition holds that human-like dolls are imbued with a spirit and they have to be disposed of in a purifying ritual.

Earlier people believed that evil spirits could possess old abandoned utensils and turn them into spectres. A strong attachment to a thing might cause a spirit called tsukumogami, attachment god. An item’s old age (100 years) could also arouse this spirit. Paper lanterns or broken sandals might bear tears which became eyes and sharp teeth, thus giving a horrifying visage. Worn prayer beads or teacups could merely manifest faces and appendages, giving a warm and friendly appearance.

Though mostly tsukumogami were harmless they did have the capacity for anger. They could band together to take revenge on those who threw them away thoughtlessly. Modern items can’t possess tsukumogami, because these spirits don’t withstand electricity and few modern objects are used more than 100 years to gain a soul.

A funeral mass for used dolls is also annually held in September in the compound of Kiyomizu Kannondo Temple in Ueno Park. Japanese people often humanize their dolls. When they are not able to keep them any longer, they bring these dolls to this temple for a funeral mass for them. After a religious ritual, those dolls are cremated from 2 pm to 4 pm on this day.